Prima La Cucina

Being of Northern Italian extraction Mark is something of a food snob. Unless the parmesan is Gran Pedano or the salami Felino or the mushroom porcini or the wine Chianti etc. then all Italian food is sub standard. There is some logic to this as the region his family is from is Emilia Romagna which is renowned for its simple, pure and flavorful ingredients. In fact Mark's view of food is to use good quality product and keep it as simple as possible. It was with some trepidation then when Mark's Mum brought over a cookbook that claimed 3 generations of Italian cooking. However what a gift this turned out to be. The author's family came from Northern Italy and most of the recipes are rustic, basic and authentic. The book is "Angela Hartnett's Cucina" and she is a protégé of Gordon Ramsay (who you either love or hate).


Of particular note is her Mushroom Ragu. You see Mark is a mushroom nut and since he was a bambino he has been addicted to their flavor, especially porcini mushrooms. Throughout Emilia Romagna and particularly the town his family is from, Borgo Val Di Taro, pasta with a mushroom sauce is pretty much a menu ever present. A special trattoria in Borgotaro called Maria's made the best! Pasta, porcini sauce, parmesan grated on top, bread and vino rosso - perfect. The recipe was kept fairly secret as Maria was the "old nonna" type of person who was not apt to share it. Anyway she has now retired and the trattoria has changed hands and unfortunately gone downhill. But as Mark told her, she will always be his "donna de mie sogne" - the woman of his dreams. Well, she may have met her match in Angela's sauce. For the record here it is:


2tbl olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig rosemary
100g dried mushrooms (porcini are best but portobello are good), covered in hot water and soaked for 20 mins
25g butter
2tsp tomato puree
50ml white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Heat oil in heavy-based pan. Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic and herbs and cook for 4/5 mins., until soft, but without coloring.


Drain mushrooms, reserving the soaking water.


Add butter and mushrooms to the pan, season well and cook for another 2/3 mins. Add the tomato puree and cook for 2/3 mins. Pour in the wine and allow to bubble and reduce completely. Strain the mushroom liquor and add to the pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 45-60 mins., until the mixture has a thick, rich consistency. Remove the herb sprigs before serving.


Tip: the longer the sauce simmers the better the flavor! Enjoy.